Tiger Salamander
Substrate
A deep coco husk substrate as Tiger Salamanders like to burrow, sphagnum moss, peat, live moss and a selection of live plants (see plant list in the forum) can all be used in your set-up. Avoid using vermiculite and gravel as these are no good for burrowing. Set-up tips can also be found on the forum.
Temperature and Humidity
These toads should be given a temperature of 68-71°f with 80-100% humidity. At night their enclosure should be slightly cooler. Spray daily to help maintain the humidity. Another way to maintain humidity would be to add a waterfall and fogger system (both relatively inexpensive) which also adds character to the enclosure. It is vital that the temperature of the enclosure does not get any higher than 80°f as the salamanders protective coating will become weak, which could lead to health problems. Regularly changing the water in the water bowl (preferably with bottled water) will aid with this.
Heating
The ideal temperature for your salamander(s) is a temperature gradient of 18-21°C with a slight temperature drop at night or 2 or 3 degrees. Additional heat should not be required for most of the year, but in winter, heat can be provided using a heat mat regulated with a thermostat. Heat mats should only cover between a third and a half of the floor or wall space to allow your salamander to thermo regulate. A cool hide should be placed in one end of the tank and a hotter hide at the warmer end, giving your salamanders a place to hide at both ends. Never use heat lamps or basking lamps for amphibians, as these can cause your salamanders to dehydrate. It's useful to have a small thermometer on either end of the terrarium to check the temperature.
Lighting
Tiger salamanders do not need the edition of UV lighting if they have enough vitamins and variation in their diet. Although you may find the live plants in your terrarium will die without any light. A fluorescent low UVB tube is ideal as it won’t give out any heat and will help the plants thrive. You should place the light at one side of the terrarium creating a light gradient so your salamanders can find a darker place out of the light if preferred. Ideally you should cycle the lighting to mimic the salamanders natural habitat by having a 12/12 system - 12 hours of light and 12 of dark.
Handling & Cleaning
Your Tiger Salamander’s terrarium should be inspected and spot cleaned daily when changing the water. Every two to three weeks clean out the tank completely and sterilise using a reptile/amphibian friendly disinfectant. Sterilise any décor and carefully remove any live plants to replace when the tank has been cleaned. Your salamander(s) should be moved to a temporary tank whilst being cleaned.All amphibians are delicate skinned and oils and salts on our skin can cause them harm. It is recommended to wear gloves if the need to handle arises.
Feeding
Salamanders should be fed daily with a varied diet of appropriately sized gut loaded insects, including meal worms, crickets, small grass hoppers, flour beetles, wax-worms, moths, caterpillars, earthworms, woodlice and may even take pinkie mice. Feeding 3 or 4 insects per salamander per feeding. The live food should be dusted with calcium and vitamin supplements once a week. As adults your Salamander should be able to feed on the occasional pinkie mouse, but you should regard this as a treat item as regular feedings on mice can cause your Salamander to become obese. Tiger Salamanders will actively hunt their food, instead of waiting for it to come to them like other frogs and salamanders. This makes them enjoyable to watch at feeding time.
Description
Depending on the type of Tiger Salamander you have, their dorsum colours tend to range between olive green, grey and golden yellow. They have black, brown or grey blotches on their bodies, given them their tiger-like pattern and name. Tiger Salamanders generally grow to between 15 to 25cms (6-10inches) in length, but it is not unknown for them to reach 35cms (14inch) in some cases. (Captive) Tiger Salamanders can live between 10 – 25 years with appropriate care. The Tiger Salamander has two specific phases in it’s life cycle, which both determine the habitat that they are found in. The larvae are entirely aquatic, living in ponds and shallow lakes. Adults are terrestrial and only return to the water for breeding purposes. They can be found burrowing in grasslands and hiding in the undergrowth. They are hardly ever seen out in the open.
A deep coco husk substrate as Tiger Salamanders like to burrow, sphagnum moss, peat, live moss and a selection of live plants (see plant list in the forum) can all be used in your set-up. Avoid using vermiculite and gravel as these are no good for burrowing. Set-up tips can also be found on the forum.
Temperature and Humidity
These toads should be given a temperature of 68-71°f with 80-100% humidity. At night their enclosure should be slightly cooler. Spray daily to help maintain the humidity. Another way to maintain humidity would be to add a waterfall and fogger system (both relatively inexpensive) which also adds character to the enclosure. It is vital that the temperature of the enclosure does not get any higher than 80°f as the salamanders protective coating will become weak, which could lead to health problems. Regularly changing the water in the water bowl (preferably with bottled water) will aid with this.
Heating
The ideal temperature for your salamander(s) is a temperature gradient of 18-21°C with a slight temperature drop at night or 2 or 3 degrees. Additional heat should not be required for most of the year, but in winter, heat can be provided using a heat mat regulated with a thermostat. Heat mats should only cover between a third and a half of the floor or wall space to allow your salamander to thermo regulate. A cool hide should be placed in one end of the tank and a hotter hide at the warmer end, giving your salamanders a place to hide at both ends. Never use heat lamps or basking lamps for amphibians, as these can cause your salamanders to dehydrate. It's useful to have a small thermometer on either end of the terrarium to check the temperature.
Lighting
Tiger salamanders do not need the edition of UV lighting if they have enough vitamins and variation in their diet. Although you may find the live plants in your terrarium will die without any light. A fluorescent low UVB tube is ideal as it won’t give out any heat and will help the plants thrive. You should place the light at one side of the terrarium creating a light gradient so your salamanders can find a darker place out of the light if preferred. Ideally you should cycle the lighting to mimic the salamanders natural habitat by having a 12/12 system - 12 hours of light and 12 of dark.
Handling & Cleaning
Your Tiger Salamander’s terrarium should be inspected and spot cleaned daily when changing the water. Every two to three weeks clean out the tank completely and sterilise using a reptile/amphibian friendly disinfectant. Sterilise any décor and carefully remove any live plants to replace when the tank has been cleaned. Your salamander(s) should be moved to a temporary tank whilst being cleaned.All amphibians are delicate skinned and oils and salts on our skin can cause them harm. It is recommended to wear gloves if the need to handle arises.
Feeding
Salamanders should be fed daily with a varied diet of appropriately sized gut loaded insects, including meal worms, crickets, small grass hoppers, flour beetles, wax-worms, moths, caterpillars, earthworms, woodlice and may even take pinkie mice. Feeding 3 or 4 insects per salamander per feeding. The live food should be dusted with calcium and vitamin supplements once a week. As adults your Salamander should be able to feed on the occasional pinkie mouse, but you should regard this as a treat item as regular feedings on mice can cause your Salamander to become obese. Tiger Salamanders will actively hunt their food, instead of waiting for it to come to them like other frogs and salamanders. This makes them enjoyable to watch at feeding time.
Description
Depending on the type of Tiger Salamander you have, their dorsum colours tend to range between olive green, grey and golden yellow. They have black, brown or grey blotches on their bodies, given them their tiger-like pattern and name. Tiger Salamanders generally grow to between 15 to 25cms (6-10inches) in length, but it is not unknown for them to reach 35cms (14inch) in some cases. (Captive) Tiger Salamanders can live between 10 – 25 years with appropriate care. The Tiger Salamander has two specific phases in it’s life cycle, which both determine the habitat that they are found in. The larvae are entirely aquatic, living in ponds and shallow lakes. Adults are terrestrial and only return to the water for breeding purposes. They can be found burrowing in grasslands and hiding in the undergrowth. They are hardly ever seen out in the open.