Anole
Substrate/furnishings
A substrate of peat moss and soil with or without a layer of bark (e.g. orchid bark) is an ideal substrate for anoles. Live plants help maintain humidity and provide cover - try Sansevierias (snake plants), bromeliads, philodendrons, ivy, orchids and vines. Pieces of bark and branches should also be provided for climbing and basking.
Temperature
during the day, provide a gradient from 75-80 F (24-27 C) with a basking spot of 85-90 F (29-32 C). A combination of under tank heating and a basking light on one side of the tank works well. Make sure the appropriate temperature gradient is provided by measuring temperatures in various spots around the tank. Night temperature can drop to a gradient of 65-75 F (18-24 C). Do not use basking lights to achieve night time temperatures - use heating pads and/or ceramic heating elements.
Lighting
A Green anole needs a full spectrum of light. A UVB light plus a heat light is needed. A mercury vapor bulb will provide both UVB and heat. Most lizards need a UVB light to produce vitamin D3 in order to absorb calcium. Place the heat light on one far end of the cage, this will create your temperature gradient. The cooler side of the cage should hover around 85°, whereas the basking spot should be around 95°. Nighttime temperatures can safely fall to 70°. If your house falls below this temperature a ceramic heat emitter can be used. You need to put the lights on a timer, with them being on 12 hours a day. An anole lizard needs a rather humid environment. The humidity level should hover around 60%. A device measuring the humidity level should be purchased to ensure a proper environment. Spray misting the cage once a day is a good way of achieving an accurate humidity level.
Water and Humidity
a humidity level of 60-70% is necessary for anoles. This can usually be achieved by misting the inside of the tank daily. It is a good idea to measure the humidity level to make sure it is adequate for anoles. Misting systems are available although they are quite expensive. If you are having a hard time maintaining the humidity level, try covering part of the top of the tank and/or increasing the number of live plants. Misting also provides drinking water for the anoles as they often will not drink from a bowl (they will lick droplets of water off the misted plants).
Feeding
Anoles are insectivores and are generally good eaters. While crickets can be the main part of the diet, it is best to feed a variety of insects. Wild caught insects can be offered as well, if pesticide free. Crickets must be gut loaded with nutritious food prior to feeding. Feed appropriate sized prey items - about 1/2 the size of the anole's head is a good guideline. Can usually feed every other day, and 2-3 appropriately sized items per feeding. Crickets and other prey should be dusted with a quality vitamin/mineral supplement.
Behavior/Communication
Anoles produce no sounds. They can drop their tails if grabbed or otherwise feel threatened. A new tail will generally grow in but regenerated tails are rarely the same as the original in color, texture, or size. Anoles are generally not aggressive, but males may quarrel if housed together. This applies to inter-species confrontations as well. Some anole species will produce aggressive displays to their reflections in mirrors. Knight anoles should not be housed with other anoles smaller than themselves - they will as cheerfully feed on green anoles as they will spiders and crickets.
A substrate of peat moss and soil with or without a layer of bark (e.g. orchid bark) is an ideal substrate for anoles. Live plants help maintain humidity and provide cover - try Sansevierias (snake plants), bromeliads, philodendrons, ivy, orchids and vines. Pieces of bark and branches should also be provided for climbing and basking.
Temperature
during the day, provide a gradient from 75-80 F (24-27 C) with a basking spot of 85-90 F (29-32 C). A combination of under tank heating and a basking light on one side of the tank works well. Make sure the appropriate temperature gradient is provided by measuring temperatures in various spots around the tank. Night temperature can drop to a gradient of 65-75 F (18-24 C). Do not use basking lights to achieve night time temperatures - use heating pads and/or ceramic heating elements.
Lighting
A Green anole needs a full spectrum of light. A UVB light plus a heat light is needed. A mercury vapor bulb will provide both UVB and heat. Most lizards need a UVB light to produce vitamin D3 in order to absorb calcium. Place the heat light on one far end of the cage, this will create your temperature gradient. The cooler side of the cage should hover around 85°, whereas the basking spot should be around 95°. Nighttime temperatures can safely fall to 70°. If your house falls below this temperature a ceramic heat emitter can be used. You need to put the lights on a timer, with them being on 12 hours a day. An anole lizard needs a rather humid environment. The humidity level should hover around 60%. A device measuring the humidity level should be purchased to ensure a proper environment. Spray misting the cage once a day is a good way of achieving an accurate humidity level.
Water and Humidity
a humidity level of 60-70% is necessary for anoles. This can usually be achieved by misting the inside of the tank daily. It is a good idea to measure the humidity level to make sure it is adequate for anoles. Misting systems are available although they are quite expensive. If you are having a hard time maintaining the humidity level, try covering part of the top of the tank and/or increasing the number of live plants. Misting also provides drinking water for the anoles as they often will not drink from a bowl (they will lick droplets of water off the misted plants).
Feeding
Anoles are insectivores and are generally good eaters. While crickets can be the main part of the diet, it is best to feed a variety of insects. Wild caught insects can be offered as well, if pesticide free. Crickets must be gut loaded with nutritious food prior to feeding. Feed appropriate sized prey items - about 1/2 the size of the anole's head is a good guideline. Can usually feed every other day, and 2-3 appropriately sized items per feeding. Crickets and other prey should be dusted with a quality vitamin/mineral supplement.
Behavior/Communication
Anoles produce no sounds. They can drop their tails if grabbed or otherwise feel threatened. A new tail will generally grow in but regenerated tails are rarely the same as the original in color, texture, or size. Anoles are generally not aggressive, but males may quarrel if housed together. This applies to inter-species confrontations as well. Some anole species will produce aggressive displays to their reflections in mirrors. Knight anoles should not be housed with other anoles smaller than themselves - they will as cheerfully feed on green anoles as they will spiders and crickets.