Green Tree Frog
Heating
For heat you can use under tank heaters situated under one end of the enclosure (not in the middle). NOTE: Do not use these heaters (undertank) with wood enclosures!! You may want to put a rock over the area that is being heated to absorb heat. My frogs constantly use this method to obtain heat. Another heating method is to use a nocturnal heat lamp (no larger than 15 watts) situated over a high point in the enclosure. (Make sure there is a screen cover between the lamp and the frogs!!) My frogs also seem to enjoy this method.
Care
Your frogs are insectivores and will take small insects that they can easily fit in their mouths. I find crickets to be the best because they are readily available and are easy to breed on your own. Whatever the food, make sure the insects have a day in their own enclosure to get some food. T-Rex sells a cricket food for gut-loading that I use and find to be very inexpensive and good. The food contains extra calcium so the frogs will benefit from the nutrient rich gut of the insects. You will also want to coat the food with calcium and multi-vitamin supplements about 3 times a week. The frogs also need to be misted once a day with de-chlorinated water. Do all spraying in the morning to prevent any bacterial buildup.
Cleaning
You should thoroughly clean the enclosure once a week. This involves taking every thing out and rinsing and scrubbing it under hot water(no soap). You may want to place the frogs in a small container at this time. The tank itself will need to be cleaned too (hot water, no soap). As for the carpeting, this you can wash with laundry detergent but it must be rinsed well with cold clean water. You may find it useful to have two pieces of carpet so when one is dirty you will always have a clean one ready to go in.
Water
Maintaining water quality is an important part of keeping you Green Tree Frogs healthy. Chlorine will need to be removed from your tap water and the best way is with some Repti Safe. Your water should be changed regularly which will depend on how much water you have and how many frogs you have. A small filter, running water and some aquatic plants will all help to keep your water clean. Only change up to 50% of the total water volume at any one time and do not use hot water from the tap. Although Green Tree Frogs can easily climb glass, it is important to provide numerous escapes from the water especially in the corners where young frogs tend to get trapped. Small frogs are often too weak to break the surface tension of the water when they have nothing but slippery glass to cling to. Part of or all of your tank may be covered in water. Green Tree Frogs will successfully spawn in as little as 10cm of water.
Feeding
In nature most frogs are almost totally insectivorous. In captivity the tendency to use substitute foods is one which must be avoided. The most common dietary problems seen in frogs are related to lack of calcium or too much protein in the diet. Calcium powders are available at many pet stores and should be mixed in equal quantities with a multivitamin powder then dusted on food before feeding. Place your food insects in a plastic bag with a pinch of calcium/multivitamin powder and shake it till the food is well
coated. By doing this about 1/2 the times you feed your frogs, calcium deficiency will be avoided. Feed your frog a variety of insects and invertebrates and you should have few diet related problems. Juveniles will happily eat flies, moths, small crickets and cockroaches, and should have food available to them AT ALL TIMES. If young frogs are kept warm and offered plentiful food they will reach breeding size in about 8-12 months. Adults will eat almost anything that moves and fits in their mouth, they should be offered about 10-20% of their own body size in food spread over 2-3 feeds each week. During winter or when your tank temperatures are reduced your frogs will need less food. It is important to increase and reduce food in both quantity and frequency with the changing temperatures of your enclosure. Remove drowned insects so as not to foul the water, or feed your frogs individually by holding the insects on some feeding tongs.
For heat you can use under tank heaters situated under one end of the enclosure (not in the middle). NOTE: Do not use these heaters (undertank) with wood enclosures!! You may want to put a rock over the area that is being heated to absorb heat. My frogs constantly use this method to obtain heat. Another heating method is to use a nocturnal heat lamp (no larger than 15 watts) situated over a high point in the enclosure. (Make sure there is a screen cover between the lamp and the frogs!!) My frogs also seem to enjoy this method.
Care
Your frogs are insectivores and will take small insects that they can easily fit in their mouths. I find crickets to be the best because they are readily available and are easy to breed on your own. Whatever the food, make sure the insects have a day in their own enclosure to get some food. T-Rex sells a cricket food for gut-loading that I use and find to be very inexpensive and good. The food contains extra calcium so the frogs will benefit from the nutrient rich gut of the insects. You will also want to coat the food with calcium and multi-vitamin supplements about 3 times a week. The frogs also need to be misted once a day with de-chlorinated water. Do all spraying in the morning to prevent any bacterial buildup.
Cleaning
You should thoroughly clean the enclosure once a week. This involves taking every thing out and rinsing and scrubbing it under hot water(no soap). You may want to place the frogs in a small container at this time. The tank itself will need to be cleaned too (hot water, no soap). As for the carpeting, this you can wash with laundry detergent but it must be rinsed well with cold clean water. You may find it useful to have two pieces of carpet so when one is dirty you will always have a clean one ready to go in.
Water
Maintaining water quality is an important part of keeping you Green Tree Frogs healthy. Chlorine will need to be removed from your tap water and the best way is with some Repti Safe. Your water should be changed regularly which will depend on how much water you have and how many frogs you have. A small filter, running water and some aquatic plants will all help to keep your water clean. Only change up to 50% of the total water volume at any one time and do not use hot water from the tap. Although Green Tree Frogs can easily climb glass, it is important to provide numerous escapes from the water especially in the corners where young frogs tend to get trapped. Small frogs are often too weak to break the surface tension of the water when they have nothing but slippery glass to cling to. Part of or all of your tank may be covered in water. Green Tree Frogs will successfully spawn in as little as 10cm of water.
Feeding
In nature most frogs are almost totally insectivorous. In captivity the tendency to use substitute foods is one which must be avoided. The most common dietary problems seen in frogs are related to lack of calcium or too much protein in the diet. Calcium powders are available at many pet stores and should be mixed in equal quantities with a multivitamin powder then dusted on food before feeding. Place your food insects in a plastic bag with a pinch of calcium/multivitamin powder and shake it till the food is well
coated. By doing this about 1/2 the times you feed your frogs, calcium deficiency will be avoided. Feed your frog a variety of insects and invertebrates and you should have few diet related problems. Juveniles will happily eat flies, moths, small crickets and cockroaches, and should have food available to them AT ALL TIMES. If young frogs are kept warm and offered plentiful food they will reach breeding size in about 8-12 months. Adults will eat almost anything that moves and fits in their mouth, they should be offered about 10-20% of their own body size in food spread over 2-3 feeds each week. During winter or when your tank temperatures are reduced your frogs will need less food. It is important to increase and reduce food in both quantity and frequency with the changing temperatures of your enclosure. Remove drowned insects so as not to foul the water, or feed your frogs individually by holding the insects on some feeding tongs.