Pacman Frog
Feeding
The PacMans are not particular on their food…if it moves and they can catch it, they will happily eat it. They do need movement to recognize food, so they will not eat dead food sources. Crickets, worms and other small creepy crawlies form the bulk of the frog’s diet. They have been known to eat small fish like guppies or even pinky mice as they reach adult size. They can recognize routine –if you feed them at the same time every day you’ll start to find them waiting for their lunch. Any uneaten prey should be removed from the enclosure the next day to prevent dead insects from polluting the frog’s environment. Every-other feeding we suggest you sprinkle a little calcium or multivitamin powder onto the bugs before you drop them into the habitat. While small pacman frogs should be fed daily, larger frogs can be fed less frequently. The best guide is to feed based on your frog's body condition - if your frog is getting too round and fat, cut back how often it is fed.
Description
A large, rotund frog most noted for its large, broad head, wide mouth, and fleshy protuberances over the eyes. Adult specimens may reach a snout to vent length of 4-5" in males and 5-7" in females, with some very large females reaching nearly one pound in weight. Pacman frogs have a squat, girthy body with short, stubby legs; the feet are not webbed but are instead designed with digging in mind (strong for their short length). The skin has a coarse, pebbly, toad-like texture on the dorsal surface but is smooth on the ventral surface. Coloration varies but tends to include a brown or green base with dark symmetrical mottled markings and a pale underbelly (albinos are a yellow with reddish markings). Oranta frogs tend to have more exuberant coloration and fanciful markings, whereas Cranwelli frogs typically fade to a brown color at maturity. Ornatas are best distinguished by single symmetrical dark markings behind the eyes. The sexes are similar in appearance, but may be distinguished by a few physical markers that become more prominent after sexual maturation. Males tend to have a steeply sloping muzzle, very dark spotting under the throat, and dark nuptial pads on the forelegs.
Housing
The minimum tank or bin size for a fully grown pacman frog is 10g (or roughly 10x20 floorspace); although large, they are ambush predators, and as such are minimally active and spend much of their time in burrowed in one location. Width and length are more important than height as this is a ground dwelling species. Larger housing may be provided but is not essential. Some suggest keeping young frogs in smaller containers to ensure that food crosses their path, but this is not necessary if fed with tongs (which is recommended).
Lighting
Pacman frogs should have a 12h/12h day and night cycle. UVB lighting is not essential if the diet is supplemented with D vitamins, and is often considered to be a gratuity as the frogs spend much of their time hidden and are most active at dusk. There is some anecdotal evidence suggesting that brighter UVB lights may also cause undue stress. However, it is noted by many keepers that providing UVB does generally promote feeding response, improve color, and reduce the chance of metabolic bone disease. It is therefore still up for debate and considered a matter of personal preference. **However, UVB lighting should never be used in tanks housing albino frogs; it is damaging to their eyes and skin and may stress them to the point of death. Ambient room lighting is more than sufficient for these sensitive frogs.**
Temperature
Day time temperatures should be between 78 and 82 degrees, with roughly 80 ideal. Night temperatures may dip into the low 70's. Day time temperatures consistently below 75 may result in loss of appetite, lethargy, illness, or prolonged aestivation. Heat can be maintained by a heating pad or heat tape affixed to the side of the aquarium; bottom-placed heaters are generally recommended against although they are more efficient as this species burrows to escape heat and may be burned. Red light heating lamps or ceramic heating elements may also be utilized, but be mindful that these sources often dehydrate the substrate (and potentially the frog!) rapidly.
Humidity
Higher humidity (~75%) is preferred, but both species tolerate a range between 50-80%. What is more crucial is a constant source of clean water and consistently damp substrate. Misting with dechlorinated water is an effective way to maintain substrate humidity in most instances. Covering half of the tank with saran wrap or glass may also help, but be mindful to maintain adequate ventilation.
Substrate
At least four inches of moisture-holding fine particulate such as organic potting soil or coconut fiber is essential to permit burrowing and prevent dehydration. Avoid substrates like moss (which may result in impaction, especially in young frogs), wood chips, and gravel (which does not maintain adequate humidity and may also result in impaction). The substrate should be soaked using dechlorinated water, and the surface soil should gently turned at least weekly to prevent the proliferation of anaerobic bacteria.
The PacMans are not particular on their food…if it moves and they can catch it, they will happily eat it. They do need movement to recognize food, so they will not eat dead food sources. Crickets, worms and other small creepy crawlies form the bulk of the frog’s diet. They have been known to eat small fish like guppies or even pinky mice as they reach adult size. They can recognize routine –if you feed them at the same time every day you’ll start to find them waiting for their lunch. Any uneaten prey should be removed from the enclosure the next day to prevent dead insects from polluting the frog’s environment. Every-other feeding we suggest you sprinkle a little calcium or multivitamin powder onto the bugs before you drop them into the habitat. While small pacman frogs should be fed daily, larger frogs can be fed less frequently. The best guide is to feed based on your frog's body condition - if your frog is getting too round and fat, cut back how often it is fed.
Description
A large, rotund frog most noted for its large, broad head, wide mouth, and fleshy protuberances over the eyes. Adult specimens may reach a snout to vent length of 4-5" in males and 5-7" in females, with some very large females reaching nearly one pound in weight. Pacman frogs have a squat, girthy body with short, stubby legs; the feet are not webbed but are instead designed with digging in mind (strong for their short length). The skin has a coarse, pebbly, toad-like texture on the dorsal surface but is smooth on the ventral surface. Coloration varies but tends to include a brown or green base with dark symmetrical mottled markings and a pale underbelly (albinos are a yellow with reddish markings). Oranta frogs tend to have more exuberant coloration and fanciful markings, whereas Cranwelli frogs typically fade to a brown color at maturity. Ornatas are best distinguished by single symmetrical dark markings behind the eyes. The sexes are similar in appearance, but may be distinguished by a few physical markers that become more prominent after sexual maturation. Males tend to have a steeply sloping muzzle, very dark spotting under the throat, and dark nuptial pads on the forelegs.
Housing
The minimum tank or bin size for a fully grown pacman frog is 10g (or roughly 10x20 floorspace); although large, they are ambush predators, and as such are minimally active and spend much of their time in burrowed in one location. Width and length are more important than height as this is a ground dwelling species. Larger housing may be provided but is not essential. Some suggest keeping young frogs in smaller containers to ensure that food crosses their path, but this is not necessary if fed with tongs (which is recommended).
Lighting
Pacman frogs should have a 12h/12h day and night cycle. UVB lighting is not essential if the diet is supplemented with D vitamins, and is often considered to be a gratuity as the frogs spend much of their time hidden and are most active at dusk. There is some anecdotal evidence suggesting that brighter UVB lights may also cause undue stress. However, it is noted by many keepers that providing UVB does generally promote feeding response, improve color, and reduce the chance of metabolic bone disease. It is therefore still up for debate and considered a matter of personal preference. **However, UVB lighting should never be used in tanks housing albino frogs; it is damaging to their eyes and skin and may stress them to the point of death. Ambient room lighting is more than sufficient for these sensitive frogs.**
Temperature
Day time temperatures should be between 78 and 82 degrees, with roughly 80 ideal. Night temperatures may dip into the low 70's. Day time temperatures consistently below 75 may result in loss of appetite, lethargy, illness, or prolonged aestivation. Heat can be maintained by a heating pad or heat tape affixed to the side of the aquarium; bottom-placed heaters are generally recommended against although they are more efficient as this species burrows to escape heat and may be burned. Red light heating lamps or ceramic heating elements may also be utilized, but be mindful that these sources often dehydrate the substrate (and potentially the frog!) rapidly.
Humidity
Higher humidity (~75%) is preferred, but both species tolerate a range between 50-80%. What is more crucial is a constant source of clean water and consistently damp substrate. Misting with dechlorinated water is an effective way to maintain substrate humidity in most instances. Covering half of the tank with saran wrap or glass may also help, but be mindful to maintain adequate ventilation.
Substrate
At least four inches of moisture-holding fine particulate such as organic potting soil or coconut fiber is essential to permit burrowing and prevent dehydration. Avoid substrates like moss (which may result in impaction, especially in young frogs), wood chips, and gravel (which does not maintain adequate humidity and may also result in impaction). The substrate should be soaked using dechlorinated water, and the surface soil should gently turned at least weekly to prevent the proliferation of anaerobic bacteria.