Ball Python
Ball Python Shedding
When your Ball Python sheds, the shed skin should remain in one piece. If it does not, you will need to check the snake carefully to be sure that the entire skin came off, especially around the tail and eyes. If the skin did not come off completely, try rubbing it gently with a wet warm wash cloth. If that does not work, then try soaking the snake in luke warm water for a few minutes, then try rubbing the skin with the wash cloth again. If all else fails, there is a product called Shed Ease that should take care of it.
If your snake has had trouble shedding, it’s because there is a problem. You should try increasing the humidity in the enclosure, especially around the time you see signs the animal is about to shed. Providing a humid hide box would help as well.
Ball Python Feeding
We all know the coolest part about owning a snake is feeding time. Watching them devour their prey whole is just fascinating! We recommend feeding your Ball Python frozen mice or rats, thawed in warm water. This eliminates the threat of a bite from a live rodent. Some Ball Pythons may reject a dead mouse at first so there are cases when you must feed live. However, all snakes will eventually convert to frozen/thawed rodents, so keep trying. It’s worth the effort.
Food Size for Hatchlings: Small mice to small rats
Food Size for Adults: Adult Rats
The rule of thumb is that prey should be no more than 1.5 times the thickest part of the snake’s body.
Feed hatchlings every 5-7 days, and adults every 10-14 days.
Feeding Problems: Ball Pythons are known to be problem feeders sometimes so don’t be surprised if your snake turns down a meal. When this happens, make sure all of the environmental variables are taken care of. Check the temperatures in the enclosure. Make sure the snake has two hides, and clean water. If everything in that area is right on, then just wait a couple of days and try feeding again. Don’t worry. These animals have been known to go months without eating so you have time to convince the animal to eat.
Lighting/Heating:
Since ball pythons are mostly nocturnal animals they will move around and prefer to eat at night no special lighting is required. The bones in the prey animals that they eat supply their need for calcium. A normal 40-60 watt incandescent bulb placed in an inexpensive clamp style lamp is sufficient light. Be sure when placing the light that it is located outside the enclosure and that the snake does not have access to it. This will help to prevent thermal burns from direct contact with the bulb. This method of lighting is also sufficient enough to provide heat and should be placed over one end of the enclosure to provide a heat gradient. A log or piece of wood placed at a 45 degree angle with the highest end under the light will allow the snake to bask and thus thermoregulate its body temperature. This method will also provide a cool end of the enclosure. A healthy snake should move about between the two ends of the enclosure regulating its body temperature freely. If a snake is spending all of its time in the hot end of the enclosure the temperature should be raised, as this is an indicator that the ambient enclosure temperature is too cool. The reverse is true if the snake is spending most of its time in the cool end of the enclosure. Heat pads and "Hot Rocks" should be avoided since all reptiles have a Preferred Optimum Temperature Zone (POTZ). In order for a reptile to reach its POTZ it must be 10 degrees F. above the ambient temperature this can not be accomplished by lying on a hot object. If the snake lies on a heat pad it can only get as hot as the pad. It is impossible for the snake to raise its temperature to 10 degrees above the object that it is laying on. Providing an overhead heat source is the best and most effective way to allow a reptile to do this. The most important factor involving lighting and heat is to be sure and to provide a heat/light cycle of 12-14 hours per day. This will allow the animal time to cool off at night. Constant light has been shown to effect thyroid production in some species of reptiles. Since ball pythons are nocturnal eaters providing constant light may effect eating habits, thus making a problem eater even more of a problem.
Housing
Housing a ball python is a relatively simple task. They require an enclosure about the size of a 30-gallon aquarium. This is suitable to house a full grown adult. It is best to go a head and invest in an enclosure of this size from the start to avoid the cost of having to replace the enclosure every time the snake outgrows it. Ball pythons are very strong and make good escape artists. Be sure that the enclosure that you use is purpose made to house reptiles since these snakes have been known to escape from glass aquariums covered will the commercially sold screen mesh lids. Always think Murphy's Law when housing a reptile, "If anything can go wrong it will". The enclosure should contain a drinking bowl large enough for the snake to soak its entire body in. Do not fill the bowl to the top since the water will be displaced every time the snake soaks in it. This will create a moist bedding that is a perfect breeding ground for bacteria and fungi. It also carries the risk of exposing the snake's ventral body surface to the potential of a moist dermatitis as a result of having to lay on moist bedding. The water bowl should be placed under the side of the enclosure where the light is to help maintain humidity. A hide box should always be provided for a ball python to reduce the stress on the animal. Often times stress alone is enough to cause one of these animals to stop feeding, so be sure to make every attempt to provide the snake with privacy. Placing a strip of duct tape around the outside bottom edge of the enclosure will also help to provide security for the snake. Bedding should consist of newspaper, astro-turf, or even vinyl tile, (which will retain heat). All bark should be avoided because it can be ingested which can lead to intestinal blockages, which in turn can lead to a secondary prolapse. Pieces of bark that get stuck in the mouth can lead to an oral infection known as stomatitis or more commonly as mouthrot.
Water and Humidity
provide a dish large enough for the snake to soak in. Soaking is especially important during sheds. Some owners like to provide a covered dish (e.g. plastic storage container) with a hole in the lid, to provide security for the snake so it will soak longer if necessary. Another alternative is to provide a humidity retreat, which similarly uses a covered container with an access hole lined with damp sphagnum moss to provide the moisture (a water dish is still provided outside the retreat).
Ball Python Life Span
With proper care, ball pythons can live 30 years or more. The record age for a ball python is more than 40 years – so plan on a long life for your new pet snake. Ball python hatchlings are approximately 10 inches in length. Adult female ball pythons average 3 to 5 feet long, and adult male ball pythons average 2 to 3 feet in size. This is a species in which mature females are typically much larger than the males. A 5-foot ball python is considered big, although lengths of 6 feet or more have been reported.
Ball Python Handling and Temperament
Ball pythons are generally shy and will spend much of their time hiding. Your ball python may initially see you as a threat and it must learn who you are. The goal is to establish trust between you and your snake.
Always support your ball python’s body and avoid fast movements. Once a ball python realizes that you will not hurt it they often seem to enjoy being handled. Some ball pythons may try to hide when handled and occasionally there are ones that may even bite due to excessive fear. These ball pythons may require a bit more time to settle in and establish trust. A ball python’s bite is a superficial wound. If a snake looks like it is going to strike, it is best to not handle it. Relax when holding your animal – sit down and give the animal a chance to settle. Some snakes may not eat for several hours or longer after being handled, so avoid handling if you plan to feed. After a snake has eaten it may be a good idea to limit the handling because it may be uncomfortable for the animal. Avoid putting your snake’s cage in a heavy traffic area, excessive movement, and other pets should be avoided.
When your Ball Python sheds, the shed skin should remain in one piece. If it does not, you will need to check the snake carefully to be sure that the entire skin came off, especially around the tail and eyes. If the skin did not come off completely, try rubbing it gently with a wet warm wash cloth. If that does not work, then try soaking the snake in luke warm water for a few minutes, then try rubbing the skin with the wash cloth again. If all else fails, there is a product called Shed Ease that should take care of it.
If your snake has had trouble shedding, it’s because there is a problem. You should try increasing the humidity in the enclosure, especially around the time you see signs the animal is about to shed. Providing a humid hide box would help as well.
Ball Python Feeding
We all know the coolest part about owning a snake is feeding time. Watching them devour their prey whole is just fascinating! We recommend feeding your Ball Python frozen mice or rats, thawed in warm water. This eliminates the threat of a bite from a live rodent. Some Ball Pythons may reject a dead mouse at first so there are cases when you must feed live. However, all snakes will eventually convert to frozen/thawed rodents, so keep trying. It’s worth the effort.
Food Size for Hatchlings: Small mice to small rats
Food Size for Adults: Adult Rats
The rule of thumb is that prey should be no more than 1.5 times the thickest part of the snake’s body.
Feed hatchlings every 5-7 days, and adults every 10-14 days.
Feeding Problems: Ball Pythons are known to be problem feeders sometimes so don’t be surprised if your snake turns down a meal. When this happens, make sure all of the environmental variables are taken care of. Check the temperatures in the enclosure. Make sure the snake has two hides, and clean water. If everything in that area is right on, then just wait a couple of days and try feeding again. Don’t worry. These animals have been known to go months without eating so you have time to convince the animal to eat.
Lighting/Heating:
Since ball pythons are mostly nocturnal animals they will move around and prefer to eat at night no special lighting is required. The bones in the prey animals that they eat supply their need for calcium. A normal 40-60 watt incandescent bulb placed in an inexpensive clamp style lamp is sufficient light. Be sure when placing the light that it is located outside the enclosure and that the snake does not have access to it. This will help to prevent thermal burns from direct contact with the bulb. This method of lighting is also sufficient enough to provide heat and should be placed over one end of the enclosure to provide a heat gradient. A log or piece of wood placed at a 45 degree angle with the highest end under the light will allow the snake to bask and thus thermoregulate its body temperature. This method will also provide a cool end of the enclosure. A healthy snake should move about between the two ends of the enclosure regulating its body temperature freely. If a snake is spending all of its time in the hot end of the enclosure the temperature should be raised, as this is an indicator that the ambient enclosure temperature is too cool. The reverse is true if the snake is spending most of its time in the cool end of the enclosure. Heat pads and "Hot Rocks" should be avoided since all reptiles have a Preferred Optimum Temperature Zone (POTZ). In order for a reptile to reach its POTZ it must be 10 degrees F. above the ambient temperature this can not be accomplished by lying on a hot object. If the snake lies on a heat pad it can only get as hot as the pad. It is impossible for the snake to raise its temperature to 10 degrees above the object that it is laying on. Providing an overhead heat source is the best and most effective way to allow a reptile to do this. The most important factor involving lighting and heat is to be sure and to provide a heat/light cycle of 12-14 hours per day. This will allow the animal time to cool off at night. Constant light has been shown to effect thyroid production in some species of reptiles. Since ball pythons are nocturnal eaters providing constant light may effect eating habits, thus making a problem eater even more of a problem.
Housing
Housing a ball python is a relatively simple task. They require an enclosure about the size of a 30-gallon aquarium. This is suitable to house a full grown adult. It is best to go a head and invest in an enclosure of this size from the start to avoid the cost of having to replace the enclosure every time the snake outgrows it. Ball pythons are very strong and make good escape artists. Be sure that the enclosure that you use is purpose made to house reptiles since these snakes have been known to escape from glass aquariums covered will the commercially sold screen mesh lids. Always think Murphy's Law when housing a reptile, "If anything can go wrong it will". The enclosure should contain a drinking bowl large enough for the snake to soak its entire body in. Do not fill the bowl to the top since the water will be displaced every time the snake soaks in it. This will create a moist bedding that is a perfect breeding ground for bacteria and fungi. It also carries the risk of exposing the snake's ventral body surface to the potential of a moist dermatitis as a result of having to lay on moist bedding. The water bowl should be placed under the side of the enclosure where the light is to help maintain humidity. A hide box should always be provided for a ball python to reduce the stress on the animal. Often times stress alone is enough to cause one of these animals to stop feeding, so be sure to make every attempt to provide the snake with privacy. Placing a strip of duct tape around the outside bottom edge of the enclosure will also help to provide security for the snake. Bedding should consist of newspaper, astro-turf, or even vinyl tile, (which will retain heat). All bark should be avoided because it can be ingested which can lead to intestinal blockages, which in turn can lead to a secondary prolapse. Pieces of bark that get stuck in the mouth can lead to an oral infection known as stomatitis or more commonly as mouthrot.
Water and Humidity
provide a dish large enough for the snake to soak in. Soaking is especially important during sheds. Some owners like to provide a covered dish (e.g. plastic storage container) with a hole in the lid, to provide security for the snake so it will soak longer if necessary. Another alternative is to provide a humidity retreat, which similarly uses a covered container with an access hole lined with damp sphagnum moss to provide the moisture (a water dish is still provided outside the retreat).
Ball Python Life Span
With proper care, ball pythons can live 30 years or more. The record age for a ball python is more than 40 years – so plan on a long life for your new pet snake. Ball python hatchlings are approximately 10 inches in length. Adult female ball pythons average 3 to 5 feet long, and adult male ball pythons average 2 to 3 feet in size. This is a species in which mature females are typically much larger than the males. A 5-foot ball python is considered big, although lengths of 6 feet or more have been reported.
Ball Python Handling and Temperament
Ball pythons are generally shy and will spend much of their time hiding. Your ball python may initially see you as a threat and it must learn who you are. The goal is to establish trust between you and your snake.
Always support your ball python’s body and avoid fast movements. Once a ball python realizes that you will not hurt it they often seem to enjoy being handled. Some ball pythons may try to hide when handled and occasionally there are ones that may even bite due to excessive fear. These ball pythons may require a bit more time to settle in and establish trust. A ball python’s bite is a superficial wound. If a snake looks like it is going to strike, it is best to not handle it. Relax when holding your animal – sit down and give the animal a chance to settle. Some snakes may not eat for several hours or longer after being handled, so avoid handling if you plan to feed. After a snake has eaten it may be a good idea to limit the handling because it may be uncomfortable for the animal. Avoid putting your snake’s cage in a heavy traffic area, excessive movement, and other pets should be avoided.